The office canteen. Perhaps you're lucky enough for this to conjure up good thoughts. Or perhaps not. Workplace canteens have actually been in steady decline over the last few decades, thanks to the rise of supermarket meal deals and fast food chains. Only a third of people report to still buy lunch regularly from their workplace.
Financial worries will likely play a role in this. Brits place food costs 3rd in their list of money worries, behind rent and bills. Skipping the canteen lunch in exchange for a home packed lunch might be an easy place to save. Even the price of a supermarket meal deal has risen 21% since pre-pandemic.
Yet sadly, the on-the-go options are not all that healthy. I had a quick flick through the latest Tesco meal deal selection online, 231 items, almost every single one ultra-processed. When I filtered for 'Source of fibre' the top result is Pringles, 'Low Salt' offers me a Dr Pepper and 'Low Sugar' provides a ham and cheese sandwich. Finding genuinely nutritious options was proving difficult. It's not just me. A YouGov poll found that only 9% of people think its easier to find healthy than unhealthy food in close distance of their office. Sadly the industry seems to be moving in the wrong direction. Dominos made the news recently with their launch of a new £4 Pizza lunch deal, not long after KFC introduced a fried chicken wrap with crisps or cookie deal only on weekday lunches.
The change in where we buy our lunch is also changing how we eat it. About a half of Brits report to eating lunch alone, often rushed and distracted in front of a computer screen. 6% skip lunch entirely. Research finds that many of us are too stressed or busy to take a proper pause for lunch. Of course the pandemic has changed things too - hybrid working means we aren't always in the office to join our colleagues for a social break.
It's a bleak picture. We all know that eating quickly, mindlessly and unhealthily isn't good for us. But it doesn't have to be this way. During my time back in London, I spent some days working with the chefs at Offley Works - a workplace canteen near the Oval. Based in a trendy converted pickle factory, they aren't a classic restaurant open to the public, but I honestly think it's some of the best food in London. So I felt very lucky to get a behind the scenes view of their culinary secrets.
Grain bowls and soups are a constant on the menu - and my favourite!
My first impression was an awe for the quality of ingredients they use. Rooting around their stock shelves gave me ingredient envy. The 3 chefs, Giles, Naomi and Tommy, use these to create a different menu of 3 or 4 options every single day. Hot and cold, veggie and meat, big and small, often seasonal, always delicious. It's inspiring to see their passion and creativity work its magic.
Whilst I spent my time making jams, pickles, sauces and stocks to top up their stores, I was able to witness the busy lunch hours. It was obvious that the workers love this place, as they crowded down with their teams for a sociable, delicious and nutritious lunch. I would estimate that 98% of the food is not ultra-processed, and every dish has at least 2 portions of veg. This was a canteen worth coming into the office for.
Grain bowls being served, and my strawberry and passionfruit jam in progress!
So why can't all office canteens be like this? Well firstly, huge credit goes to the chefs at Offley who are just incredibly talented. But secondly, and I'll let you in on a secret, it's really tough for this canteen to work financially. The quality of the ingredients, along with the generous portions, variety, home-made focus and attention to detail means the dishes are really worth £15+. But to compete with the £3.60 Tesco meal deal, the team are forced to keep prices down.
Like in so many parts of the food system, the battle between healthy and sustainable with price feels never-ending.
Honestly, the guys at Offley don't have a solution to this yet, but they've certainly redefined what it means to be an office canteen. Brits have a poor reputation for our work lunch culture, but places like Offley make me proud. A canteen like this would certainly be a huge pull factor for me to work for a company, and to show up at the office.
So if you can afford to buy your weekday lunch, try and support the businesses who are championing healthy and sustainable. I often think that spending money in this way is like investing in the food system you want to see in the future - almost like casting a vote. I certainly want places like Offley to grow and be successful, you never know - perhaps 90s canteens could have a comeback just like 90s fashion.
Some of the amazing dishes from Offley Works
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